From Foxes to Fortresses

Something to get used to when traveling in Japan: taxis are small. In the States, we have enormous taxis, often based on the Ford Crown Victoria platform—imagine a limousine-sized vehicle with a trunk big enough for everything you own.

In Japan’s rural countryside, however, most taxis are Toyota Comforts, a model derived from the Toyota Camry. These cars seem immortal; it’s not unusual to find yourself in one that’s 25 years old. Yet, they’re spotless. You’ll often see drivers wiping them down between fares, polishing every chrome edge until it gleams. If you didn’t know better, you might assume they just rolled off the factory floor.

The drivers themselves are part of the experience—immaculately dressed in shirts, ties, and slacks, and always unfailingly polite. But make no mistake: the cars are small. Four older Americans squeezed into the back of a late-’90s Camry is a tight fit. Consider this your traveler’s tip: pack light and stretch before you climb in.

We left Zao Fox Village and headed for Shiroishi Castle—my daughter, wife, and I wedged in the back, my son up front beside the driver. The road wound through the mountains, cedar shadows rippling over damp asphalt. The mist clung to the hills, and the driver’s calm confidence seemed to anchor us against the narrow curves.

The twenty-minute ride marked a transition—from the mischievous charm of Zao’s foxes to the quiet dignity of samurai history. As we approached Shiroishi, the castle came into view: white walls rising against a blue-gray sky. Smaller and more welcoming than Himeji or Osaka, yet undeniably regal. It radiated the composure of something that has watched centuries pass.

If you’re just beginning to explore Japan’s feudal past, Shiroishi Castle (白石城) is an ideal place to start. It served as the southern defense post for the Sendai Domain during the Edo period. The land was granted by Date Masamune—the one-eyed dragon of Sendai—to his loyal retainer Katakura Kojūrō Kagetsuna, whose family ruled the region for over 260 years.

The castle sits on the Masuoka Hills (益岡丘陵) overlooking the Tōhoku Plain, near the border of Fukushima Prefecture. It’s framed by Japanese cedar (sugi / 杉), hinoki cypress (檜), and red pine (akamatsu / 赤松), their earthy scent blending with the crisp northern air.

When we arrived, we stepped out of the taxi and stood before the Ōtemon, the main gate. Beyond it was a two-story gatehouse with heavy wooden doors bound in iron—a faithful reconstruction of the Edo-period original. The path beyond is narrow, deliberately so: a defensive tactic to slow attackers.

Inside, you’re asked to remove your shoes—a small ritual of respect. Socks are fine; slippers are optional (and often comically oversized). The floors gleam with polished wood that creaks softly with age. The stairs are steep—nearly ladder-like—with narrow treads. My size 10 shoes felt enormous against them.

Light slants through yazama (矢狭間)—slit-like windows once used by archers—and teppōzama (鉄砲狭間)—round openings for muskets. They remind you this place wasn’t built for peace but for vigilance.

Outside again, we wandered through the courtyard gardens, where plum (梅), ginkgo (銀杏), maple (紅葉), and camellia (椿) trees blend color and fragrance across the seasons. The air hummed with cicadas, and crows circled overhead. There’s a stillness here—a rhythm of time slowing just enough for reflection.

When we finally left, we called another Toyota Comfort. The driver bowed lightly, loaded our shoes and bags, and we sank gratefully into the seats, legs aching from the climb. As we drove off, the castle’s white walls disappeared behind the trees.

The day had been long but rich—foxes, fortresses, and a bit of history beneath the same gray-blue sky. Back at the hotel, a hot bath and a konbini juice-box Oni Koroshi felt like a just reward. Tomorrow, the road leads on—to Sekigahara.

If You Go

Getting There:
From Zao Fox Village, a taxi to Shiroishi Castle (白石城) takes about 20–25 minutes, costing around ¥3,000–¥4,000. Tell your driver: “Shiroishi-jō, onegaishimasu.”

Nearest Station:
JR Shiroishi Station (Tōhoku Main Line) — a 10–13 minute walk or a short cab ride to the castle.

Hours & Admission:

• April–October: 9:00–17:00
  
  

• November–March: 9:00–16:00
  
  

• Admission: ¥400 adults / ¥200 children
  
  

• Combined tickets available with the Samurai Residence Museum.